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| sixteen windows |
I am using a Valspar sample pot of their water based satin finish in Tidy White. I never use paint that needs a spirit to clean brushes etc; I prefer the simple (not smelly) water clean-up.
This is the process:
1. paint one side, leave to dry
2. paint other side, leave to dry
3. rub down both sides with the finest 'sander' you can get nothing coarser than 220 grit - look in the painting section for the pads painters use.
4. paint one side, leave to dry
5. paint the other side, leave to dry
Hopefully they are now ready to use.
But............
Check over very, very carefully - does it need another coat? will two do? do you want to rub down again lightly and maybe wax after that - the final finish is all about how fussy you are.
Here's a photo to show you the first coat before and after light sanding to get rid of the nibs
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| the after one is on the left, the before one is on the right |
P.S. Talking to Wilma I thought I had written a post on how much work went into making the windows and other trims ready to paint. I skipped back through all my posts and can't see what I thought was there. Before I even started painting the windows (as described here) they had already been sanded to within an inch of their life. The trims in this kit are fairly rough material and are roughly cut. DHD now does laser cutting so this should no longer be an issue. I had to sand down thirteen windows and generally tidy them up before I could even begin the painting instructions that you have just read here, For you, just be sure the material you are about to paint is as smooth as it can be before going at it with a paintbrush.
Are your windows made of MDF? Mine are and I am about to do them so I will follow your instructions and see the result. I hadn't considered waxing over paint. Do you do this? Thanks again for the great tips. x
ReplyDeleteSorry Wilma, no idea if it is MDF... it is the same colour but a very poor texture... not at all smooth. The five steps I listed here is exactly what I did with this set of windows so, no, didn't go on to waxing them. I would have done had I been using a matt or chalk finish paint but I used a satin finish (water based) one and that gives enough 'sheen' for my liking. Lots of people love gloss for windows - your own choice. Re-reading this I need to emphasise that i had already worked on these windows prior to painting - they were already sanded down as smooth as i could manage. There is an earlier post. I go back and redirect people to it. Thanks for that reminder. Marilyn
ReplyDeleteWell, what do you know - there isn't an earlier post about the windows and trims needing loads of work - I dreamed it! I have added a note to this post though.
ReplyDeleteHello Burygardeners,
ReplyDeleteThank you for the helpful tips. Sanding is such an important part to get a fine finish.
Big hug
Giac
Thanks for following Giac. I suspect it is something most of us learn by experience. I knew everything I said here when I did project one but thought I could just short cut it.....not very patient....by project two I knew there was no short cut.....lots of sanding and lots of thin coats if you want a decent finish at this scale. You get to see the house next week. Marilyn
ReplyDeleteI have just brought the Dalton with terrace at Xmas, this being my first ever dolls house and feeling very overwhelmed with it all. I am trying to put the dormer windows together and not sure if the laser cut square goes on the outside as a trim or inside. Any ideas.
ReplyDeleteHi Rachel, nice to meet you. The window frame goes on the inside. I had a horrible time trying to get the dormers neatly joined up and in place so I can imagine you are currently struggling. I did a post on them on 16 July 2016 if you can find that. I am always happy to help by email if you need more information. Marilyn
DeleteThank you for getting back to me. Now starting to get a plan and will let you know how I get on.
ReplyDelete